The timepieces debuting at SIHH 2022 that have the industry buzzing
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The timepieces debuting at SIHH 2022 that have the manufacture buzzing
Ahead of next calendar week's SIHH exhibition, CNA Lifestyle gathered the opinions of some of the globe's almost influential watch publications.
(Photos: Audemars Piguet, Cartier, Girard Perregaux, IWC, Panerai, Parmigiani Fleurier, Piaget)
eleven Jan 2022 06:15AM (Updated: 04 Jul 2022 03:11PM)
Each January, the SIHH (Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie) kicks off the watchmaking world's agenda. The exhibition normally sets the tone for the rest of the year, and then it'due south studied closely by the industry also as by timepiece collectors and aficionados.
But typically, around November the previous yr, watchmaking companies get-go issuing pre-SIHH novelties. Like motion-picture show trailers edifice anticipation for the films' actual theatrical releases, these teasers are meant to whet horological appetites for what's to come at the fair.
For the watch press, the teasers provide useful textile for content, especially during the traditionally "quiet" weeks in belatedly Dec and early January. Those mag pages and webpages aren't going to fill themselves, right? And speaking of webpages, hither's what some of the most influential watch blogs and publications are saying about the novelties.
AUDEMARS PIGUET
Regal OAK OFFSHORE CHRONOGRAPH
With the Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph being an Audemars Piguet bestseller, the visitor took to declaring 3 new additions to the family unit. Specifically, it congenital on the popularity of a military-inspired model released in early 2018: The three novelties are clad in cover-up colourways.
Noted Singaporean collector/watch journalist Su Jia Xian, who runs watchesbysjx.com, published a straightforward clarification of the watches. But, in keeping with his practise, he also included retail prices in Singapore dollars – useful for local collectors.
The influential local web log Deployant also carried news of this trio, saying that "The colours look stunning in the press photographs, and we look forwards to seeing and photographing them live in SIHH." The report ended with a teaser: "According to Audemars Piguet, their new 2022 drove promises many more than surprises. Stay tuned."
CARTIER
SANTOS, LIBRE AND PRIVE
Cartier was the most prolific of all the watchmakers, announcing its novelties in three tranches: the Prive drove in late Nov; the Libre series in mid-December; and a new variation of the Santos just last week.
Su provided coverage of all reveals. Not surprising, because how he was in one case the moderator of the Cartier forum on PuristSPro.com.
Of Prive – a new line of tonneau-shaped men'southward watches – he noted that it'south "a nod to Collection Privee Cartier Paris (CPCP), a line of high-end mechanical watches produced for a decade starting in 1998". He likewise argued that its reincarnation is the consequence of its absenteeism having "made collectors' hearts grow fonder".
Of Libre – a collection of iv bejewelled women's watches– he gave a succinct description of the watches' specifications and offered estimated retail prices too.
The latest Santos variant features a blue dial, which Su says lends the lookout a "slightly more sporty feel". He also noted the subtle design details, observing the degrade event of the blue colouration and the "unusual" Roman numerals, which come with a mirrored cease.
GIRARD-PERREGAUX
LAUREATO PERPETUAL CALENDAR
According to Revolution, the new Laureato Perpetual Calendar is role of Girard-Perregaux's "ongoing effort to go along the Laureato collection in a steady state of growth". The report also highlighted that the movement, Calibre GP01800-0033, was developed from scratch, and designed to be as user-friendly as possible.
"Ease of use on the new calibre is ensured by the fact that the date, month and spring yr indicator can all exist adjusted using the crown, both backwards and forward," it read. In some perpetual calendar watches, the indications take to be adjusted using a stylus-similar corrector.
A Blog to Watch correspondent Kenny Yeo couldn't help just notice how the dial resembled a smiley confront, thanks to the layout of the indications. He was also impressed by the relative svelteness of the case thickness (11.84mm) – "remarkable for a sports spotter with a perpetual calendar complication" – and by its decent water resistance rating (100m) – "making it a watch that you lot tin can truly and confidently have to the h2o".
HERMES
ARCEAU 78
Existence a colonnade of Hermes's timepiece collection, it was only correct that the Arceau receive a makeover for the model'due south 40th anniversary in 2018.
As well having its case enlarged to 40mm, the Arceau 78 also welcomed an aesthetic upgrade. Every bit Crown Watch Blog's Editor-in-Chief Alvin Wong wrote, "what really makes the Arceau 78 stand out is the bead-blasted cease on the bezel and anthracite punch", although he would have "loved the watch fifty-fifty more if it came with an automated movement".
Meanwhile, Watchesbysjx'south Su wasn't too concerned by this feature. "Like the majority of Arceau models, the watch is powered by a fuss-free, Swiss-made quartz movement," he remarked.
IWC
PILOT'Southward WATCH
The world's most influential sentry publication, US-based hodinkee.com, carried just one study of the pre-SIHH watches: IWC's Pilot's Watches. This quartet comprises the Double Chronograph Superlative Gun Ceratanium; Chronograph Spitfire (Statuary); Timezoner Spitfire Edition "The Longest Flying"; and Constant-Force Tourbillon Edition "Le Petit Prince".
The new editions, said Hodinkee Senior Writer James Stacey, "evidence the breadth of technology, watchmaking, and fashion available in what is likely IWC's core product line". Of the iv, the Double Chronograph Top Gun Ceratanium was the i he was "near interested to see" in real life.
Deployant gave a adequately detailed overview of the watches, making sure to highlight the brand's technical firsts. For example, the Timezoner Spitfire Edition "The Longest Flight" is the first-ever IWC model to combine the patented Timezoner machinery with an entirely automatic IWC-manufactured motility.
For Watchesbysjx, the two Spitfire editions were the nigh significant, because "all Spitfire watches volition now exist equipped with in-firm, or industry, movements [equally opposed to stock ETA or Sellita movements]" – a motility enabled by the recent opening of a new manufacturing facility in Schaffhausen.
Su also noted that IWC is the main sponsor behind Silver Spitfire – The Longest Flight, a round-the-earth flight involving a WWII-era Spitfire happening this summer.
JAEGER-LECOULTRE
MASTER ULTRA-THIN MOON ENAMEL
With cases just x.4mm high or less, Jaeger-LeCoultre'southward Principal Ultra-Sparse collection is impressive in its own right. But the focus of this new variant is on the dial decoration, specifically, the artistic traditions of guillochage (a type of engraving) and enamelling.
Deployant pointed out that "Jaeger-LeCoultre remains one of the few Manufactures offering gem-setting, engraving, guillochage and enamelling at its workshops, artistic techniques that require delicate and subtle work", and that "the guilloche enamel… features a deep, intense midnight blue which achieves perfect harmony with the case of this limited edition".
Singapore-based sentry authorisation Revolution besides sang praises of the dial treatment. Editor-in-Main Darren Ho wrote, "Rose engine turning is a special art… But information technology's highly prized, as the way it reflects and scatters lite over the patterned surface creates a mesmerising visual effect."
Crown Watch Weblog'due south Managing Editor Melissa Kong summed up the general sentiment: "While it's slender and sophisticated, what'due south most striking… is really how gorgeous the dial looks. If Jaeger-LeCoultre'due south point was to drive domicile its creative capabilities, this model is right on the money."
MONTBLANC
STAR LEGACY NICOLAS RIEUSSEC CHRONOGRAPH AND TIMEWALKER CHRONOGRAPH
For its pre-SIHH 2022 offering, Montblanc revisited and refreshed ii pillar collections: Nicolas Rieussec and TimeWalker.
The Star Legacy Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph was updated with anthracite-coloured dials. And even though the watch wears big with a diameter of 44.8mm and thickness of 15.02mm, Watchesbysjx'southward Cheryl Chia idea that the "rounded surfaces and curves make information technology seem less aggressively large compared to similarly sized chronographs."
As for the TimeWalker drove, which received two new chronograph models with reverse panda dials (white chronograph sub-dials on a black principal dial), Chia described the pieces equally having "retro-racing car vibes". While both watches appear like at a glance, the Automatic Chronograph is powered past a Sellita movement while the Industry Chronograph is driven past an in-business firm engine. And there are a host of subtle details that fix the watches apart, all of which are dutifully noted past Chia.
PANERAI
SUBMERSIBLE CHRONO GUILLAUME NERY EDITION (PAM 982)
With a h2o resistance rating of 300m, the PAM 982 is fabricated for French freediving champion Guillaume Nery.
A Blog to Watch Contributing Editor Zach Pina thought that the watch worked well from a design standpoint – "the hitting bluish tones and textures feel like a natural match to the source inspiration" – simply felt that its flyback chronograph movement didn't offer "whatsoever existent benefit to a freediver".
Watchesbysjx's Chia had no such issues. "Despite being a complicated dive watch, the Submersible Chrono is legible, thanks to its smart chronograph layout," she wrote.
PARMIGIANI FLEURIER
TORIC CAPITOLE AND TONDA METROPOLITAINE SELENE
Parmigiani Fleurier's Toric Capitole caught the attention of Watchesbysjx'southward Su, while the Tonda Metropolitaine Selene found favour with the Deployant squad.
Su observed that while the wandering hours machinery used on the Toric Capitole isn't a new device, it'south being put "on testify for the first time, instead of existence hidden underneath the punch". He also pointed out that although the intricate pattern on the dial is repeating, information technology's really done by hand, not with a machine.
The handiwork plant on the Tonda Metropolitaine Selene, a ladies' watch with a moon phase indication, delighted the folks at Deployant as well. "Decorative operations carried out by hand give it a tangible and unique value," read the blog entry, in reference to the treatment of the rose gold moon and its realistic craters.
PIAGET
ALTIPLANO TOURBILLON METEORITE
Although Monochrome Watches' Editor Rebecca Doulton felt that Piaget'southward Altiplano Tourbillon Meteorite wasn't an "earth-shattering novelty", she said information technology nonetheless had "a lot going for it".
She was impressed by how the watchmaker/jeweller fitted the meteorite dial into the ultra-thin (7.4mm-thick) instance. "Cutting meteorite into wafer-thin slices is not the easiest of tasks", she observed, but "Piaget's background in gemstone cutting came in handy to whittle information technology downward to size". Doulton also thought that the eccentric punch layout worked well, "giving the functions a kind of planetary/orbiting experience".
Watchesbysjx'south Su gave some insight into the meteorite itself. "The meteorite used for watch dials is of the iron variety, made up mostly of iron and nickel. It's grey in its natural state, with a distinctive, streaky Widmanstatten pattern created past the nickel-iron crystals inside. Iron meteorite is unremarkably etched with acid to bring out the definition of the Widmanstatten design, and can besides be coloured, which is what Piaget has done," he wrote.
VACHERON CONSTANTIN
LES CABINOTIERS GRANDE Complication PHOENIX
Vacheron Constantin'south Les Cabinotiers is a bespoke watchmaking department that creates mechanically and artistically intricate pieces for the well-heeled. This twelvemonth'south offering is a Grande Complication watch with 15 complications (or functions), including a perpetual calendar and a minute repeater. It's housed in an elaborate case hand-engraved with a phoenix motif.
Crown Spotter Blog's Wong called it "a lookout so regal that it deserves a mini palace of its own". He was blown away by both the complication of the move (it has 602 parts) also as by the beauty of the case, which takes 300 hours – that'southward around 2 months' piece of work – to engrave.
The Deployant team was also total of admiration. Of the move (Calibre 2755) and its xv complications, the written report said: "The watchmakers of the Les Cabinotiers department have succeeded in all-around all these functions within the limited space of the instance by maximum miniaturisation of all components, while preserving their reliability."
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